If you have a Zodiac LM Series salt cell, fill it with salt cell cleaning until the plates are completely coated. Allow for a 15-minute soak.
In This Article...
What do you use to clean a salt cell?
Scale buildup is one of the most prevalent problems that salt pool owners face. This is because scale forms in locations that are difficult to observe early, such as the cell plates. The plates within the electrolytic chlorine generator (ECG), which produces chlorine for the pool using electricity and dissolved salt (sodium chloride). If the scale builds up unnoticed, it will reduce the cell’s efficacy and limit its lifespan.
For two reasons, the ECG of a salt cell can provide an excellent breeding ground: heat and high pH generation.
- Heat Calcium tends to drop out of pool chemical solutions and mineralize into a deposit when the water temperature rises. Because of the greater temperatures, calcium frequently accumulates near pool heaters.
- The generator’s conversion of salt to chlorine produces a high pHpH as a byproduct (NaOH). Scaling around the pool surface and equipment might occur if the pH level is not maintained.
You can apply a variety of scale control solutions directly to circulating water. You should add such a solution to the water once a month, depending on the product. You can also attempt to keep the pH of your water regulated and clean build-up as it occurs.
You’ll need muriatic acid, a plastic bucket or salt cell stand, and a garden hose to clean the salt cell and remove scale build-up.
- Remove the filtration system from the equation.
- Remove the salt cell from the union connections with care.
- Using a garden hose, rinse the cell plates.
- Use a mild acid wash if the persistent build-up persists. Before combining a 4:1 solution of water and muriatic acid in a bucket, put on rubber gloves. It’s always better to add acid to water rather than the other way around.
- Connect the salt cell to the cell stand and fill the unit with muriatic acid solution. Allow for 15-20 minutes of soak time. Make sure the cell’s electrical connections aren’t obstructed.
- Rinse the cell with a garden hose after the bath.
- The acid combination should either be saved for further use or properly disposed of.
- Replace the cell with a new one.
What causes calcium to accumulate in the salt cell?
Calcium is what causes the white accumulation on a salt cell. Calcium scaling can be caused by a variety of factors, including pH levels and water temperature. The higher either number is, the more calcium is likely to build up. More of this build-up will occur if the pH levels are not maintained.
Calcium accumulation, if left unchecked, can produce stains that are difficult to remove. The better you are at removing calcium buildup from your pool, the better.
You can get rid of it by using a salt cell cleaner like this one:
Is it possible to clean a salt cell with vinegar?
Check the cell for calcium and mineral deposits before cleaning. To do so, turn off the power to begin with. If you attempt to remove the unit while the electricity is on, you may receive a shock. After the electricity has been turned off, look within the pool for debris on metal plates. If deposits exist, they will seem light in hue. In the cell, you might notice flaky or crusty deposits.
Remove the deposits with a high-pressure garden hose now that you know where they are. If the garden hose doesn’t work, try removing the deposits with a plastic or wooden tool. To scrape the deposits, make sure you use it lightly on the debris. If the deposits are trapped, gently raise the pressure. Keep in mind that cleaning up clutter takes time. So don’t rush to scrape the flakes; else, you can end up injuring the pool’s walls.
Prepare the vinegar solution. In the market, you can buy a ready-made vinegar solution. It’s also simple to manufacture the solution at home by combining vinegar and water in the proper ratio. Choose a vinegar solution that is neither excessively concentrated nor too dilute. As a general guideline, opt for a mild solution with an equal amount of water and vinegar.
Soak the saltwater cell or hot baths (as the case may be) in a vinegar solution for at least one night. Within a fortnight, the solution can eliminate any leftover debris. Before you submerge the cell, coil the electrical harness beside it. Immerse the cell up to the wiring’s top. Rinse it with a high-pressure garden hose. If moderate deposits remain, repeat the operation with a different solution to completely cleanse the cell.
How long does a salt cell in a pool last?
All of this is made possible by the salt chlorine generator cell in your pool. A cell can endure up to five years if properly cared for. It will, however, need to be changed at some point. The problem is that knowing when it’s time isn’t always straightforward.
How do you clean a chlorinator’s element?
Cleaning your Salt Water Chlorinator Cell is necessary to remove calcium, which is a by-product of chlorination, from the cell’s plates. The cleaning solution is extremely caustic, thus wearing protective clothing is strongly advised.
- Make a cleaning solution with 1/10 part Hydrochloric Acid and 1/10 part water (always add Hydrochloric acid to water).
- Switch off the filtering system.
- Salt Cell should be removed from the housing.
- Add the Salt Cell to the cleaning solution, being careful not to make touch with the terminals.
- Wait for the Salt Cell to be cleansed, which should take about five to ten minutes.
- If any calcium clumps or refuses to dissolve, use a smooth plastic utensil to carefully remove them.
- After cleaning the Salt Cell, rinse it with fresh water before replacing it in the housing and tightening the cell or collar.
- Return the system to the automated or timer setting.
- Dispose of the cleaning solution.
Is it okay if I put vinegar in my pool?
Have you ever been annoyed by the chalky, white gunk right at the waterline of your gorgeous, clear pool? Calcium accumulation is what it is, and while it does not harm your pool or the water, it does not look good.
White vinegar can remove this eyesore in your pool in the same way it would remove calcium buildup in your coffee pot. Scrub the residue away with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water, a sponge, or a soft cloth dipped in it. It’s fine if a small amount of vinegar gets into the pool, but if you’re worried, test the water after using vinegar and adjust the levels as needed.
I’m not sure how to tell whether my salt cell is bad.
Have you ever stood in front of your salt cell and wondered, “Is this thing actually working?” You can’t know merely by looking at the cell body because it’s opaque. While the device is functioning, you must be able to see the cell plates. We provide a procedure for evaluating the cell’s operation in this article, but it does necessitate the use of a dummy cell, a spare that you may temporarily install in the plumbing in lieu of the cell while doing this test.
Steps to testing your salt cell:
- Turn the pump off.
- Remove the salt cell by loosening the unions (hint: take a picture of the cell before removing it so you don’t put it in backwards).
- If necessary, clean the cell. Here are our cell cleaning instructions.
- Place your dummy cell in the piping where the salt cell was removed. This will allow you to turn on the pump without flooding the area.
- Submerge the salt cell in a bucket of pool water, but make sure the wire connections do not become wet.
- Activate the salt system by turning on the pump. For this test, set the output on the salt system to 100%. When you’re finished, return the output to its original setting.
- If the flow sensor is incorporated into the cell (Intellichlor), lightly press the sensor paddle with your finger until it makes contact and the sensor closes.
- The control box will send power to the cell once it detects flow. When the cell is turned on, you should witness a lot of bubbling between the salt cell’s plates.
If the salt cell does not bubble, either the cell does not have electricity or the cell is defective. More troubleshooting will be necessary.
- If the salt cell bubbles a little but not much, it’s probably a faulty cell. Calling a pool specialist to confirm this diagnosis is still a smart idea.
- If the salt cell bubbles vigorously, it is functioning properly.
- If the salt cell is working properly yet the pool is consistently reading 0% chlorine, something else is amiss. In this article, we go over some of the alternative options.
Is it necessary to fill the chlorinator with water?
A sufficient flow of water is required for the saltwater chlorinator to function properly. Insufficient water flow might cause the chlorinator to produce less chlorine due to a filthy skimmer basket, blocked or dirty filter, and clogged pump strainer.
When a salt cell fails, what causes it to fail?
Check the power first. Make sure the test button on your salt cell isn’t popped or tripped if it’s plugged into a GFI outlet. If your salt system is hardwired, voltage fluctuations may cause the controller to malfunction.
After that, make sure the pool’s salt level is correct. Even if your device displays a digital salt level, it is recommended that you use salt test strips because it is possible that the digital salt level is incorrect.
Examine the water flow. Water flow can be reduced to such a low level by dirty pump baskets, blocked impellers, or clogged filters that minimal chlorine is created. For the same reason, check the pump timer.
Make sure your water balance is correct. Your pH and cyanuric acid levels, in particular. Chlorine can be difficult to use when the pH is high and the CYA is low. To lessen the stress on your salt cell, maintain a pH of 7.2-7.6 and a CYA (or stabilizer) level of 30-50 ppm. Excessive utilization of the salt cell promotes scale formation and may result in premature cell failure.
Do you have a clean salt cell? The metallic plates of a salt cell generate a scale accumulation that lowers chlorine output as it creates the electrolysis needed to convert the salty water to chlorine.
The polarity of new salt systems can be reversed to slough off accumulated scale. Other devices may feature a light that indicates when the cell has to be cleaned manually. Older salt systems have neither, and therefore must be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis.
A clean salt cell, good flow, and proper water balance and salt level can restore chlorine production or, in some situations, resolve unrelated error codes. So give these a shot first, and you might not even need a new salt cell or controller hardware.

